40 Maltby Street

Lodestar of London’s natural wine movement, this bistro, wine shop and bar à vins belongs to wine supplier Gergovie Wines. You can drink anything on the shelves, from a hand-numbered bottle of Barbaresco by young producer Fabio Gea to a Viré-Clessé from the year 2000, for just £12 corkage. The food is arguably an even stronger reason to go there. Stephen Williams celebrates the most fleeting of British seasons on his chalkboard menu of dishes like nettle omelette; new season’s onion fritters and lovage vinegar; grilled venison, swede pudding and rosemary butter or elderflower and lime tipsy cake. No bookings.