Bulrush

Once a Hackney supper club, now one of Bristol’s biggest names, George Livesey’s Bulrush can be found in Cotham, north of the city center, on the small site some may recall from the ’80s as Stephen Markwick’s Bistro 21. Livesey is an alumnus of St. John and Club Gascon, among others, so expect striking ideas. Koji ice cream with fresh honey truffle and cajeta comes with wagyu fat waffles; duck with hedgerow hoisin, chervil root and muscat purée. Approachably priced, with tasting menus ranging from £48 to £90.