Cycene

Blue Mountain School, a rarefied retail and cultural space on fashionable Redchurch Street, scored a success with Mãos under, first, Nuno Mendes and, later, Edoardo Pellicano. Five years on, it has a new modern British concept in Cycene (the name means “kitchen” in old English) in partnership with Theo Clench, whose résumé includes stints at Portland, Bonhams and Akoko. Serious but seductive, somewhere between an immersive installation and a fine-dining restaurant, the peaceful candlelit room hosts just 16 at a time for 10 courses, with low-intervention wines or alcohol-free curiosities.