Dorian

“A bistro for locals” is the tagline of this Parisian-style Notting Hill newcomer with its green banquettes, marble tables, and checkerboard tiles. That may sound exclusive, Notting Hill being about the toniest London postcode, but what owner Chris D’Sylva (Notting Hill Fish + Meat, Supermarket of Dreams) means is that it’s for regulars, not destination diners. Chef Max Coen (ex-Ikoyi, Kitchen Table, Frantzén) is a rare talent. He cooks bistro food in a modern British idiom using very fine produce, such as turbot with Porthilly oysters and wild garlic; liver parfait and quince soldiers; and deep-fried quail with hot sauce.