Game Bird at the Stafford

The Game Bird at The Stafford belongs to the Stafford Collection, a small luxury group that also includes Sicilian restaurant Norma and Northcote in Lancashire. British seasonal produce is the name of the game, meaning Wye Valley asparagus and hollandaise in spring, grouse and game chips in late summer, celeriac consommé and truffle in autumn and native lobster for New Year’s. As if the velvet-clad room weren’t theatrical enough, there’s smoked salmon from the trolley and crêpes Suzette flamed tableside.