Gunpowder

At the three outposts of Gunpowder, former management consultant Harneet Baweja and his wife, Devina Seth, brilliantly showcase the home-style Indian cooking they grew up eating in Kolkata. Produce is all locally sourced, apart from the Iranian saffron, and makes use of British ingredients in dishes like Chettinad pulled duck or Blackwater wild oysters from Chelmsford. Modern techniques make for clever and hugely enticing dishes, such as porzhi okra fries or the rightly famed venison vermicelli doughnuts, which resemble crispy scotch eggs.