La Brinca

This restaurant in the Val Graveglia, an hour east of Genoa, offers the cooking of a lesser-known part of Liguria. Opened in 1987, Franca Circella has been the soul of La Brinca ever since, and her version of local dishes like fried ravioli with herbs, cuniggiu magro (the local version of capon magro made with rabbit instead of fish) or baccioca, a pie made with local potatoes and onions, are perfect expressions of the valley’s terroir. A good wine list – largely available by the glass – pays special attention to natural wines.