Trattoria al Pompiere

Opened in the first half of the last century by a retired firefighter, this joyful trattoria uses checkered tablecloths that are not a nod to nostalgia but rather the actual way the place has always looked. Today, one of the main attractions is the corner where chef Natalino composes platters of salumi and cheeses from the 35 different cured meats and close to 100 cheeses that are on hand. The cuisine is warm and lovely, and doesn’t lack refinement: think guinea fowl ravioli with forest mushrooms and crunchy garlic butter or Venetian-style veal liver with roasted polenta.