Viavélez

he chef at this obligatory stop for Madrid's gourmands, Paco Ron, is little known outside of Spain, but he is a culinary star within the city. With his cuisine, which originates in Asturias, he creates simple but elevated compositions that evidence a mastery of execution, texture and, above all, flavor. His patatas à la importancia ("important potatoes") with clams alone make a visit worthwhile. It is the same with his delicate fabada (white bean stew) or tripe stripped of its fat, which enhances the intense flavor.